India Joze Culinary Tour in Turkey
Tentatively June 14-July 7
Turkey has been the crossroads for over 5000 years of some of the world's most ancient civilizations and cuisines dating back to the very beginnings of agriculture. Our culinary tour will investigate significant culinary developments in the areas they arose, including ancient Greek and Roman cuisine, foods of the Islamic Renaissance, the Ottoman empire's development and dissemination of what has become known as Meditterranean Cuisine. We will be using food to understand history and history to understand food. Discussions will range from the military logistics of Alexander the Great to the natural history of food ingredients to the care and use of wood-fired brick ovens.
Although this is not yet a college class, readings and background materials will be suggested to deepen your understanding and enhance your enjoyment of what you see and do.
Cooking classes will include both lecture/demonstration and hands-on instruction.
This is still a somewhat preliminary itinerary as transportation details are still being worked out. Any changes will be for the better.
1/13 Somewhat updated to reflect my confusion about how long the flight to Istanbul really was.
Day 1: June 14 In transit
We lose a day which we make up on the flight home.
Day 2: Thursday, June 25 at Ataturk International Airport in Istanbul. Meet your guide and enjoy one private group transfer to your hotel.
Day 3: Friday, June 26
Roman Hippodrome, Blue Mosque, Hagia Sofia Basilica, Bascilica Cistern, Topkapi Palace Complex, and Grand Bazaar
Today, after breakfast at the hotel, you will meet your guide at 9AM and begin a full day walking sightseeing tour. Start with a visit to the ancient Hippodrome, an area that was once the center of Byzantine civic life, with as many as 100,000 zealous fans witnessing chariot races, executions, and mock battles. Underground Cistern Fortress Constantinople withstood centuries of siege, partly because of an ingenious underground water supply. A statue of Medusa is pressed into service, upside down, to support a column. Moody and magnificent. Continue to Sultan Ahmet Mosque, more familiarly known as the Blue Mosque because its interior gleams with a magnificent paneling of blue and white 17th century Iznik tiles. Next, visit Hagia Sophia, often described as the greatest work of Byzantine architecture. Once the Church of Holy Wisdom, Christendom's crowning glory, and now a museum, this church once glittered with mosaics, and art treasures filled every corner. Our next stop is Topkapi Palace. We suggest Konyali restaurant within the complex for lunch (lunch on your own) before starting our tour of the palace. The restaurant serves dishes of traditional Ottoman cuisine. We will spend time exploring this former imperial residence from where the great Ottoman Empire was ruled for 400 years. Today, it is a spectacular museum with one of the largest collections of Chinese and Japanese porcelain and the very famous treasury of the Ottoman Sultans.
We will have a short lecture on carpets in order to bring you up to speed regarding on of the great shopping temptations in Turkey. You will have many, many charming opportunities to buy during the trip. We need to get your defenses in order.
For tonight's dinner we will walk/train from the hotel to Istiklal Street, the heart of the modern city center - the Beyoglu district. Being the center of the culinary capital of Turkey, Beyoglu is enjoying a cultural and architectural revival, boasting many chic cafés, bars, bistros and restaurants. Istiklal Street, the busy pedestrian thoroughfare favored by both Istanbul's residents and guests because of its unprecedented options for wining, dining, and people watching also features many charming historical buildings. We will proceed to the Haci Abdullah Restaurant, which opened in 1921 and preserves a wonderfully nostalgic atmosphere. In fact, preserves are major jewels in the decor. The restaurant specializes in Ottoman-style meals and kebabs.
Overnight: Osmanhan Hotel, Sultanahmet http://osmanhanhotel.com
INCLUDED MEALS: D
Suggested Reading:
Pamuk Orhan's Istanbul
Death in the Venetian Quarter Historical novel about 13th Century Istanbul
We finish up the day at the famous Grand Bazaar. In addition to its historical importance, this bazaar will tempt even non-shoppers with nearly four thousand shops exhibiting a rich collection of precious handmade carpets, jewelry, leather, antiques, and souvenirs. Cemberlitas Hamam An ancient marble Turkish bath is near the Bazaar. Get the buying and selling scrubbed and pummeled out of you.
Overnight: Osmanhan Hotel, Sultanahmet http://osmanhanhotel.com
INCLUDED MEALS: B
Suggested Discussions and Readings:
Lords of the Horizons, Jason Goodwin History of the Ottoman Empire, paying especially attention to the food and kitchen symbolism in the governing bodies
Uses of the Past, Herbert J. Muller We are packing in over a thousand years of history today. I'd like to discuss the whys and wherefores of researching long ago type cuisines.
Day 4: Saturday, June 27 After breakfast at the hotel, check-out and transfer to Istanbul Airport for a domestic flight to Nevsehir (right in Cappadocia)
Upon arrival you will be picked up by a motor coach to start your tour of breathtaking Cappadocia. Cappadocia (Kapadokya) is the ancient and modern name of a remarkable region in Central Anatolia. It is a geological wonderland which is sometimes described as covering a triangular area between Kayseri, Nigde, and Kirsehir, or more specifically, a smaller triangular area from Urgup to Avanos to Nevsehir. Renowned for its awe-inspiring natural rock formations - which were utilized for everything from housing to churches and even complete underground villages - Cappadocia is as magical today as it was when early farmers discovered the fertile powers of the volcanic ash that covered the area thousands of years ago. You will first visit Goreme. The open air museum of Goreme consists of steep cliffs and many hidden churches dating from the second half of the 9the century and later. After lunch on your own at a local restaurant we will continue to Uchisar, where you will visit Uchisar Fortress. Uchisar is the name of a town and the fortress in the town. This 60 meter-high fortress was not built but carved out of a natural hill dominating the area with a breathtaking view of all the surrounding Cappadocia formations. We will then go to Ortahisar to tour the Museum of Cultural Life. Through discussion and dioramas, we will explore aspects of village life that have been in existence for centuries such as how cave homes were made, how to make pekmez, a grape syrup made every Fall, that cures everything from a stomach ache to respiratory infections and even raki hang-overs. After this visit, we will check in at our hotel.
From Frommer's:
This is one of the only hotels in the region that has amenities such as a swimming pool and tennis courts -- and they didn't need to build a boring, ugly superstructure to do it. The Kaya Hotel maintains a level of authenticity in its uncomplicated rooms cut out of the cliff side, with interesting details like alcoves and practical ones like balconies. Because of the stone walls and terra-cotta floor, rooms stay cool under the August sun, but even summer evenings can get a little crisp, so you may want to book one of the rooms in the tower, which stay warmer. Pigeon Valley spreads out below the hotel, with views from almost every angle, especially from the terrace restaurant, which serves one of the better meals -- buffet-style - in the area.
Overnight: Uchisar Kaya Hotel
INCLUDED MEALS: B, D
Day 5: Sunday, June 28 Underground city of Derinkyu , Pasabag site, Turasan winery, Avanos and local crafts center. This morning we will continue to explore Cappadocia. First we will visit the remarkable underground city of Kaymakli. Beginning in the second century AD, as successive armies swept across Asia Minor, the residents of Cappadocia created uniquely defensible communities by digging approximately eight stories down into the volcanic tufa stone. Next we will visit Pasabag - a site of natural beauty, where you can take the best pictures of the remarkable landscape of tufa cones. Included lunch today includes a cooking demonstration in a small, local restaurant. After lunch we can visit the Turasan Winery. Cappadocia is one of the main wine production areas in Turkey, and Turasan winery (founded in 1943) is the biggest producer in the area. Here you will have chance to try local wine.
Overnight: Uchisar Kaya Hotel
INCLUDED MEALS: B, L, D
Day 6: Monday, June 29 This morning we will check-out and visit a local carpet workshop in Aksaray, where you will have a chance to learn about all aspects of this traditional Turkish craft, from silkworm cultivation, to spinning, dyeing and the traditional patterns and weaving techniques. After this you will depart for Konya. On the way we will see Seljuk caravanserai - Sultan Hani. Built between 1232-36, this caravanserai was one of the largest and most magnificent on the old Silk Road. Upon arrival in Konya (ancient Iconium), one of the oldest cities in Anatolia, you will have lunch on your own at a local restaurant. After lunch, we will visit Mevlana Tekke (Tomb of Mevlana), the most famous monument in Konya and the object of pilgrimages from all over the world, since it is the tomb and shrine of Mevlana Celaleddin Rumi, the founder of the Mevlevi Order of Whirling Dervishes. The tomb was converted into a museum after the Proclamation of the Republic. In the museum there are items which belonged to Mevlana and other dervishes as well as valuable samples of hand-painted kerchiefs, handwriting, ornaments, wooden works of art, instruments for Mevlevi music, carpets and kilims. The most appealing section of the tomb is the Kubbe-i Hadra (Green Vault) above the graves of Hz. Mevlana and his son Sultan Veledin. The inside of the structure, built by Architect Bedreddin during the Seljuk Period in 1396, is coated with green tiles. The inner walls of the tomb were embellished with plaster relief and designs. The sarcophagus of Hz. Mevlana is one of the superior samples of wooden crafts of the period. After this visit we will leave Konya and continue to Akseki, stopping by the town of Beysehir. Here you will see a unique wooden mosque, Esrefoglu Camii, the finest example of the Seljuk Turkish flat-wooden-ceiling and wooden column-style of mosque construction in Anatolia. Carved wood, inlaid and painted wood decorate the beams and rafters and columns.
In the early evening we will arrive in the town of Beysehir, and then proceed to a near-by village to experience rural Turkey. Here you will meet local people, have a home-made dinner and stay overnight at a village house.
Overnight: village house
INCLUDED MEALS: B, D
Suggested Readings and Discussions:
Rumi
How Islamic Cuisine and Agriculture Dominated the Middle Ages
Day 7: Tuesday, June 30
Drive from Beysehir to the coast. Visit the ancient theater of Aspendos enroute. Stay one night in Antalya.
Marina Residence Hotel
Mermerli Sok 15, Kaleigi
Antalya, Turkey 07980
Phone: 011-90-212-513-6301
Location: Situated in Antalya, right in the Old Town city center. Wonderful location. Ambience: Glamour of the former Ottoman Empire; architecture of the ancient Mediterranean.
Overnight: Marina Residence Hotel, Antalya
INCLUDED MEALS: B, D
Day 8: Wednesday, July 1
Explore down the coast;
Wander around Olympos. Visit the natural eternal flame in the hills of Olympos.
Lunch included in a riverside restaurant. Overnight in Kas.
Overnight: Gardenia Hotel or similar
INCLUDED MEALS: B, L, D
Day 9: Thursday, July 2 Blue Cruise out of Fethiye After breakfast we will check-out and depart for Fethiye. On your way you will stop by the site of ancient Myra (Demre). Here, many splendidly carved rock tombs overlook the magnificent Roman theater. St. Nicholas (Santa Claus) was the bishop of this Mediterranean city during the fourth century and died here in 342. We will also visit his tomb and a church dedicated to him. Enroute take a trip to the sunken ruins of Kekova
and have an included lunch here. Arrive this afternoon in the city of Fethiye, which is located southeast of the Gulf of Fethiye. The resort town of Fethiye has an important marina and overlooks a beautiful bay strewn with islands. Above the town, called Telmessos in antiquity, numerous Lycian rock tombs, reproducing the facades of ancient buildings, were cut into the cliff face. At the harbor of Fethiye we will embark on a gulet (traditional Turkish yacht) and meet with your captain and crew. After dinner on board, you will stay overnight either at Fethiye's harbor or a near-by cove.
INCLUDED MEALS: B, L dinner on board
The captain of our ship is a fabulous cook, very open to sharing his techniques.
Day 10: Friday, July 3Relax, cruising around the untouched beauty of the 12 Islands, stopping in at coves and bays along the way for swimming and snorkeling. Optional walks to ruins and sights, including a Greek ghost town. We will take you to see the real, non-touristy side of Turkey on this cruise. Cleopatra's Bath (Swim through the underwater ancient ruins)
INCLUDED MEALS: B,L,D on board
Day 11: Saturday, July 4
Red Island, Flat Island, Bedri Rahmi Bay, Tersane Bay, Hamam Bay, Cold Water Bay. Blue Cruise
INCLUDED MEALS: B,L,D on board
Day 12: Sunday, July 5
Blue Cruise, return to Fethiye.
Today we will be met for the drive to the mouth of Dalyan River where we are met by a small river boat, which takes us upriver on the Dalyan through a maze of small channels lined with bamboo and cattails. We will see the ancient rock-cut tombs of Caunos and stop for lunch in Dalyan. Visit mud baths, stay in Dalyan or maybe Mugla, which is a university town with a good market and great sense of everyday Turkish life.
This would be another good chance for a market crawl/cooking class, especially if there is a hotel in Mugla which would let us play in or near their kitchen.
Overnight at the Dalyan Resort or in the city of Mugla?
Hotels in Mugla:
http://www.petekhotel.com/index.php
http://www.yucelen.com.tr/eng_otel/muglakonaklama.php
INCLUDED MEALS: breakfast on board, D
Day 13: Monday, July 6
Through the mountains to Aphrodisias - site visit, then to Pamukkale, arriving afternoon. Visit the Heiropolis site and museum.
Overnight: Pamukkale - Venus Hotel or similar
INCLUDED MEALS: B
Spend morning at hot springs then depart for Selcuk/Kusadasi.
Overnight in Selcuk:
Kalehan Hotel
Selcuk 35920 Turkey
Tel. 011-90-232-892-6154
Fax 011-90-232-892-2169
The hotel is situated in Selcuk below the 6th century castle 3 km from Ephesus and 6 km from Pamucak beach.
This would be a good time for an afternoon market crawl/evening class/dinner on Ancient Roman cuisine.
Overnight: Kalehan Hotel
INCLUDED MEALS: B D
Day 14: July 7 Full day in Ephesus.
After breakfast at the hotel, meet with your guide and start a full day tour of the famous Ephesus sites. During the tour, you will visit the Ephesus ancient site, the House of the Virgin Mary, and the Ephesus Archeology Museum.
Ephesus Ancient Site: As the capital of Roman Asia Minor, Ephesus is still richly endowed with marble temples, mosaics and a 25,000-seat Great Theater. The city, whose wealth and patronage supported its splendid architectural program, was dedicated to the goddess Artemis, and her enormous temple was once considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.
The House of the Virgin Mary: On Bulbul Dag (Nightingale Mountain) there is the House of the Virgin Mary where it's believed that she passed the last years of her life and died. The Virgin Mary came to Ephesus together with St. John and was taken up to Panaghia Kapulu Mountain to survive the Roman persecutions. Now the House of the Virgin Mary is recognized as a shrine by the Vatican.
Next, we will continue to the town of Selcuk and visit the Ephesus Archeology Museum. Almost all of the exhibits are findings from Ephesus, the most spectacular being two life-size statutes of Artemis Ephesia, both of them dating from the middle Roman imperial era.
Overnight: Kalehan Hotel
INCLUDED MEALS: B
Discussion:
Food Religions, Food Taboos
Day 15: July 8 Drive to Assos, stopping in Bergama - visit Acropolis & Asceplion.
: Adatepe village. Here we will visit the museum of olive oil - first of its kind in Turkey. Then we will continue to a near-by olive processing factory and meet its owners, who will show us how olives are processed and olive oil produced
Overnight: Nazlihan Boutique Hotel, Assos
INCLUDED MEALS: B, D
Day 16: July 9 Drive to Troy, visit site. Drive to Bursa for Iskendar Kebab and Hamam Historic natural hotsprings Hamam
Overnight: Almira Hotel in Bursa
INCLUDED MEALS: B
INCLUDED MEALS B D
Readings and Discussions:
Iliad, Homer War Music is an intense, concise, poetic translation of a key section of the Iliad that touches on the main themes
Six Thousand Years of Bread Homeric and Early Greek Cuisine: The Religion of Bread
Day 17: July 10 Half day in Bursa, Depending upon the weather Bursa markets and/or teleferique up 8000 ft. mountain behind city. Hike and relax. then bus back to Istanbul, arriving late afternoon. Dinner at Kurdish restaurant in Yali
Overnight: Osmanhan Hotel
INCLUDED MEALS: B D
Readings and Discussions
Lecture on food and ethnic identity.
Day 18: July 11 Istanbul: Çiya Sofrasi Fabulous restaurant outside Istanbul in Kadaköy which is more or less a practicing culinary museum. I'm hoping to wrangle at least a mini kitchen tour; lunch on own here. Maybe dinner too.
Overnight: Osmanhan Hotel
INCLUDED MEALS: B
Day 19: July 12 Istanbul: Shop for Turkish cooking restaurant equipment outside Spice Market. For the brave, some difficult to find Turkish specialties available in the alley outside. Shop selling Lookum (Turkish Delight) for the past 300 years. If you need to ask what kokoreç is, you might not want to try it....
Cruise up the Bosphorus to Sariyer domestic arts museum. Cooking party with a master of Turkish cuisine.on your own.
Overnight: Osmanhan Hotel
INCLUDED MEALS: B
Day 20: July 13 Istanbul: We've barely scratched the surface of what there is to see in Istanbul..A day to take it easy or to pack in more sightseeing
Overnight: Osmanhan Hotel
INCLUDED MEALS: B
Discussion:
What does Turkey have to teach us about the world and history of food?
Day 21: July 14: Breakfast at the hotel. Return to the US. As we lost a day coming to Turkey, we gain a day returning, arriving in SFO 4:40PM
INCLUDED MEALS: B
3 week trip includes:BR>
¥ 17 nights in first class/4 to 5 star hotels & 1 village house
¥ 28 meals including 17 full breakfasts, 3 lunches (Lunch & cooking demonstration in Cappadocia, Olympos Mountains),
8 dinners (Welcome dinner at Haci Abdullah plus 10 additional dinners -Cappadocia (2), Beyshehir village, Antalya, Finike, all meals on board gullet yacht, Dalyan, Assos
All transportation in modern, air-conditioned minibuses with professional driver, including one group arrival transfer and one group departure transfer, bus parking and tolls; drivers expenses.
¥ Luggage portage at all hotels and airports (clients will not need to tip; it's included)
¥ All admission fees to sites and museums listed in the itinerary
¥ Professional, licensed English-speaking tour guide for Days 1-8 and Days 11-17
¥ Flight from Istanbul to Nevsehir, Cappadocia.
4 Day/3 Night Blue Cruise on traditional Turkish gulet down Lycian Coast.
¥ Cooking classes, market visits, shopping expeditions
$4878 per person double, subject to currency fluctuations (Land Only available)A $350.00 deposit is required to secure space, due Jan 1, 2009
$775 single supplement for any others who prefer single accommodations.
Not Included:
Drinks, some lunches and dinners, details to emerge
PAYMENT DETAILS
A $350.00 deposit is required to secure space. _ After tickets are issued, refunds for air fares will be governed by regulations listed in flight contract. For the land portion, a cancellation fee of $75.00 is charged until time of departure. There will be no refunds after departure. Final payments due APRIL 1, 2009. Deposit fully refundable up to 90 days before departure. No partial refund or credits will be given for unused services. The organizer reserves the right to accept, retain, or cancel any prospective or actual member of the tour at any time, at any place, and for any reason, at our discretion. If any participant is removed from the tour, a proportionate refund will be made. Organizer will not reimburse participants for any substitute arrangements they make on their own. Deviations from the pre-paid itinerary are at the participant's expense.
ADJUSTMENTS TO TRIP COST:_Trip cost is based on a minimum number of participants. Minimum 10, maximum 15 participants. If the minimum number is not met, Joseph Schultz reserves the right to cancel the trip or to apply a surcharge to costs.