SPRING 2005 ETHNIC COOKING NOTES

Persian Cooking

History


Wild grasses in stream valleys turned out to be wheat and rice. Cows and sheep and lambs will follow you around, even if you plan to eat them. Who'd a thought?

Naan Lavash

and the beginnings of Bread

Sekanjabin

Zoroastrianisn and the Struggle between Good and Evil Mirrored in Sweet/Sour Sauces

Ayran or Doogh

Wild Yeasts and Bacterias Make Good

Sabzi Khordan

Persian Herb Platter: Coincidental resemblance to "bitter herbs" of Passover? I think not. Fresh herbs are major part of the diet and have been for millenia, either raw or great bunches chopped fine and simmered in dishes like

Gormeh Sabzi

Simmered out bits of meat with multiple pulses (beans,chickpeas, lentils), lotsa herbs and vegetables. If this dish were soupier, it would be called an abgushte. Some of the meat and beans might be strained out and made into one of the many types of P‰tŽ (Paste)(Pesto).

Chelo Kebab

Alexander the Great came from a mobile warrior tradition that ate skewered meats. Alexander adopted the ways of the Great King, including culinary traditions (much to the disgust of some of his soldiers), after conquering the Persian Empire. This national favorite , lamb tenderloin marinated, grilled, buttered, dusted with sumac (a tart dried cherry powder), served on rice (chelo) w/ eggyolk and usually some thick youghurt sums up the two traditions. Very fragrant varieties of rice, like basmati, and very exacting treatments of that rice make it easy to agree with Persians that their rice dishes are the most sophisticated on earth.

Baid Masus

The Romans never conquered very much of Persia, but their extensive use of spices and herbs and sweet-tart sauces certainly leaned upon the Persian traditions. Super rich, aromatic, and spicy, these type of dishes persisted into the Muslim era. Even today

Narsirk

a similar dish done with lamb noisettes is a traditional, somewhat anachronistic dish in the Now Rooz celebrations.

Chicken Mishmishiya

Persian Apricot Braised With the coming of Islam, the use of wine in cooking became problematic, but no worries because the spread of Islam was simultaneous with the spread of new agricultural techniques, vegetables and especially fruits. "Persia" is the root of our word "peach". Fruit like apricots, especially dried, had much the same sweet-tartness as wine, so a whole genre of fruit-meat stews, often known as "khoreshte" blossomed.

Kuku-ye Sabzi

This model for the Spanish tortilla and the Italian frittata shows how far the Persian influence spread with the Islamic Empire. This edition with tons of herbs is squarely in the New Year tradition. But one of Persia's lasting gifts to the culinary world was cheap refined sugar, "qand" in Persian, which became our "candy". King Jamsid, a legendary figure, was reputed to have invented sugar on the first day of Now Rooz, so many sweets are an important part of the festivities.

Yahk dar-behesht

Ice in Heaven Persian Pudding Thickened with almonds, spiced with rosewater Persians learned how to distill, this pudding was the original model for panna cotta as well as, more distantly, creme brulŽe.

Sharbat

Snow brought down from mountain peaks by relays of horses, flavored with perfumed syrups, became our sorbets and sherbets. Culinary advancement seems to usually come to rich centers of civilization able to overcome extreme logistical difficulties to provide the best for the best. Baghdad under Caliphs like Haroon al-Rashid, famous from Sheherazade's 1001 Nights Tales, was every bit as much a pinnacle of culinary creativity as France under Louis XIV, the Chinese Song Dynasty, and late 20th century New York.

Persian Baklava

Filled with almonds, flavored with rosewater, cardamon and saffron, this early version is not nearly so well known as the Greco-Turkish variety with walnuts. At the zenith of Persia's cultural expansiveness, the Mongols laid waste to vast parts of Persia and the eastern Muslim world, including the city and library of Baghdad. In response to that earlier "Shock and Awe", the Persian intelligensia retreated philosophically, culinarily, and culturally. Or fled. Persian expatriates were instrumental in the ideas and techniques of the Renaissance, especially in cooking. Even Mexican cooking bears an unmistakable imprint from the Persians in Spain who brought foods and techniques to the New World when they fled the Inquisitions of the Christian barbarians. But from here on out, Persian influences become a faint, unnamed undercurrent, with Turkey putting the face on Islam for the West until the 20th century, when a different, non-cooking oil would galvanize the world's attention on Persia, now Iran, again
One site with many Persian Recipes.

Persian Recipes


Other elements:

NOWRUZ SPRING FESTIVAL OR NEW YEAR'S CELEBRATION

From New Food of Life, Najmieh Batmanglij
In harmony with the rebirth of nature, the two-week Persian New Year celebration, or Nowruz , always begins on the first day of spring (the first day of the month of Farvardin, which refers to "the spirits") marked by the vernal equinox, or Tahvil. On that day-which may occur on

March 20, 21, or 22

- the sun crosses the celestial equator. Nowruz ceremonies consist of a series of symbolic actions dating back to ancient times, including:
Cleaning of the environment, cleansing of the self, confession of sins, the exorcising of devils, or divs, from the house and the community.
Forgive yourself and your enemies and a time for making up relationships.
Dowsing and re-lighting the fires.
Processions to borders, seas, and rivers.
Disruption of the normal order of things with boisterous parties.
A few weeks before the New Year, Iranians thoroughly clean and rearrange their homes. They make or buy new clothes, bake pastries and germinate seeds as signs of renewal. Troubadours, called Hadji Firuz or heralds of rebirth, disguised with makeup and wearing red satin outfits, sing and dance through the streets with tambourines, kettle drums, and trumpets to spread good cheer and the news of the coming New Year. The Hadji Firuz's disguised face represents the return from the world of the dead, his red costume symbolizes the blood and tragic fate of the legendary Prince Siavush and the rebirth of the god of sacrifice, while his happiness and singing represent his joy at being reborn.
In every Persian household a special cover is spread onto a carpet or on a table. This ceremonial setting is called sofreh-ye haft-sinn (literally "seven dishes' setting," each one beginning with the Persian letter sinn). The number seven has been sacred in Iran since antiquity, and the seven dishes stand for the seven angelic heralds of life-rebirth, health, happiness, prosperity, joy, patience, and beauty. The symbolic dishes consist of sabzeh, or sprouts, usually wheat or lentil, representing rebirth. Samanu is a pudding in which common wheat sprouts are transformed and given new life as a sweet, creamy pudding, and represents the ultimate sophistication of Persian cooking. Sib means apple and represents health and beauty. Senjed, the sweet, dry fruit of the wild olive, represents love. It has been said that when the wild olive is in full bloom, its fragrance and its fruit make people fall in love and become oblivious to all else. Seer, which is garlic in Persian, represents medicine. Somaq, sumac berries, represent the color of sunrise; with the appearance of the sun Good conquers Evil. Serkeh , or vinegar, represents age and patience.
To reconfirm the hopes and wishes expressed by the traditional foods, other elements and symbols are also placed on the sofreh. Books of tradition and wisdom are laid out: usually a copy of the holy Koran ; and/or a divan of the poems of Hafez . A few coins, representing wealth, and a basket of painted eggs, representing fertility, are also placed on the sofreh. A Seville orange floating in a bowl of water represents the earth floating in space, and a goldfish in a bowl of water represents Anahita , one of the angels of water and fertitily, which is the main purpose of the nowruz celebration. The fish also represents life and the end of the astral year associated with the constellation Pisces. A flask of rose water, known for its magical cleansing power, is also included on the sofreh. A bowl of fresh milk, representing nourishment for the children of the world. Pussy willow branches, pomegrantes, figs, and olives, representing time. Nearby is a brazier for burning wild rue, a sacred herb whose smoldering fumes are said to ward off evil spirits. A pot of flowering hyacinth or narcissus is also set on the sofreh . On either side of a mirror are two candelabra holding a flickering candle for each child in the family. The candles represent enlightenment and happiness. The mirror represents the images and reflections of Creation as we celebrate anew the ancient Persian traditions and beliefs that creation took place on the first day of spring, or Nowruz
On the same table many people place seven special sweets because, according to legend, King Jamshid discovered sugar on Nowruz ("candy "comes from the Persian word for sugar, qand).
Baqlava Baklava, with chopped almonds and pistachios soaked in honey-flavored rose water;
Nan-e Berenj Rice Flour Cookies w/ Cardamon and Poppy Seeds
Nan-e Nokhodchi Chick-pea Cookies, and
Noghl Sugar Coated Almonds -representing prospertiy.
Nan-e badami (almond cookies), made of almond flour flavored with cardamom and rose water;
Sohan asali (honey almonds), cooked with honey and saffron and garnished with pistachios; and
Nan-e gerdui, made of walnut flour flavored with cardamom and garnished with pistachio slivers.
On the eve of the last Wednesday of the year ( Shab-e chahar shanbeh sury , literally "the eve of Red Wednesday" or "the eve of celebration"), bonfires are lit in public places and people leap over the flames, shouting, " Sorkhi-e to az man o zardi-e man az to! " (Give me your beautiful red color and take back my sickly pallor!). With the help of fire and light, symbols of good, celebrants pass through this unlucky night-the End of the Year-and into the arrival of spring's longer days. Tradition holds that the living are visited by the spirits of their ancestors on the last days of the year. Many people, especially children, wrap themselves in shrouds to symbolically reenact the visits. By the light of the bonfire, they run through the streets, banging on pots and pans with spoons and knocking on doors to ask for treats. This ritual is called qashogh-zany and reenacts the beating out of the last unlucky Wednesday of the year. In order to make wishes come true, it is customary to prepare special foods and distribute them on this night: Ash-e reshteh-ye nazri (Noodle Soup); a filled Persian delight, Baslogh , and special snacks called ajil-e chahar shanbeh soury and ajil-e moshkel gosha,"unraveler of difficulties," is made by mixing seven dried nuts and fruits-pistachios, roasted chick-peas, almonds, hazelnuts, peaches, apricots, and raisins.
A few hours prior to the transition to the New Year, family and friends sit around the sofreh-ye haft-sinn . Everyone sings traditional songs, and poems of Hafez and the Koran are recited.
Exactly at the moment of the equinox, my father would recite a prayer for the transition, wishing for a good life, and we would all repeat after him out loud.
Then traditionally the oldest person present begins the well-wishing by standing up and giving out sweets, pastries, coins, and hugs. Calm, happiness, sweetness, and perfumed odors are very important on this day of rebirth, since the mood on this day is said to continue throughout the year. An old saying goes, "Good thought, good word, good deed-to the year end, happy indeed."
The New Year celebration continues for twelve days after the equinox occurs. Traditionally, during the first few days, it is the younger members of the family who visit their older relatives and friends in order to show their respect. Sweet pastries and delicious frosty drinks are served to visitors, and there is a general air of festivity all around. The children receive gifts, usually crisp new notes of money. Later, the elders visit the younger members of the family.
According to the ancients, each of the twelve constellations in the zodiac governed one of the months of the year, and each would rule the earth for a thousand years, after which the sky and the earth would collapse into each other. The Nowruz celebrations, therefore, lasted twelve days, plus a thirteenth day (representing the time of chaos) celebrated by going outdoors, putting order aside and having parties. On this thirteenth day, called Sizdeh bedar or outdoor thirteen, entire families leave their homes to carry trays of sprouted seeds in a procession to go picnic in a cool, grassy place. Far from home, they throw the sprouts into the water, which is thought to exorcise the divs and evil eyes from the house and the household. Wishing to get married by the next year, girls tie blades of grass together. There is much singing, dancing, eating, and drinking. With this, the Nowruz celebrations are completed.
The traditional menu for the Nowruz gathering on the day of the equinox usually includes fish and noodles. It is believed they bring good luck, fertiltiy and prosperity in the year that lies ahead.
Ash-e reshteh Noodle Soup - , noodles representing the Gordian knots of life. Eating them symbolically helps toward unraveling life's knotty problems.
Sabzi polow ba mahi, Rice with Fresh Herbs and Fish- rice representing rebirth, fish representing Anahita, one of the angels of water and fertility. Or
rice with noodles, dates and raisins, or
Shireen Polo––rice with barberries, candied orange peels and carrots.
Kuku-ye sabzi Herb Kuku- , the eggs and herbs represent fertility and rebirth.
Nan-o panir-o sabzi khordan Bread, Cheese, and Fresh Herbs - , representing prosperity.
Samanu Wheat Sprout pudding - , representing fertitlity and rebirth.
Kolucheh-ye Javaneh-ye Gandom Sprout Cookies - , representing prosperity and fertility.
Yakh dar Behesht Ice in Paradise - , representing nourishment for the children of the world.
Sharbat-e Zaferan va Chai-e Zafaran ba nabat Saffron Sherbet & Saffron Tea with Rock Candy representing sweetness and light.

Persian Recipes

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